Auch wenn dieser Wein 14 % Alkohol in sich birgt, ist er ein durchaus schlanker Vertreter seiner Art. Es ist ein Zin, ein Zinfandel – ein Wein also, mit dem ich im Wesentlichen aufgespritzte Botox-Weine verbind, die ich normalerweise rechts in die Kategorie Popcorn-Wein verlagere. Nicht so dieser salopp daherkommende Rote, wo Zin draufsteht, aber nicht komplett Zin drin ist. Auch wenn es die dominierende Rebsorte ist, haben sich Carignan und Sangiovese eingeschlichen. Eine ungewöhnliche Kombination, die aber nicht weiter überrascht, wenn man Randall Grahm kennt, den Macher dieses Weins und Gründer der Bonny Doon Winery. Da ist so ziemlich alles ungewöhnlich. Der Mann verschneidet auch kalifornische Weißweine mit Moselriesling. Er arbeitet völlig unorthodox, die Weine sind genauso wie die Etiketten. Sie spielen mit den verschiedensten Stilen, nichts ist ihm wirklich heilig und trotzdem ist er kein Ikonoklast, er zerstört nicht, sondern zitiert.
Ok, abseits der Schwafelei – ich höre ja schon auf – birgt dieser Wein nur leichte Tannine, man findet neben der Kirsch- und Blaubeerfrucht einen Teelöffel voll Gewürze, etwas Orange vielleicht und ein wenig Teer und vor allem eine klare Säure, die diesen Wein angenehm rund und sehr trinkbar macht.
In Zukunft allerdings wird dieser Wein, neben Grahms zweitem Topseller Big Hous, nicht mehr von ihm selber gemacht. Die beiden Label sind an The Wine Group LLC verkauft worden, “Bonny Doon möchte sich auf seine Wurzeln besinnen und terroirgeprägte, biodynamisch angebaute Weine erzeugen”.
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